May 14-15 Nassau to Highbourne Cay

Our buddy boat, Snow Flake snuck out of here earlier than they said as I found out returning from an early store run this morning at 9AM.  I was going to stop bye their boat before they left and, well they left.  Actually left before 8AM.  Nice.

I wasn't so anxious to leave, wanting to wait until at least we had a rising tide before heading across the bank.  Jeff came over after Dyson had his computer running and updating.  We chatted a bit and then I began our departure process which is turning on and off things we need or don’t need when running.  And this time the forecast is for 3-5 foot seas.  That’s rough for us. But other forecast are holding to 2-3 foot seas.  Only way to find out it is to go out.

Leaving Nassau Harbor through the eastern anchorage

So we did.  Jeff cast off off lines as the wind blew us off the dock and we headed out.  We ran along the marina docks which are clustered together around here and merged in with the nondescript channel (there are no channel markers on the east end) as we headed out of the harbor proper and into the Banks.

Exuma has a large area of shallower water referred to as the Banks.  Once at the islands you can also run down the Sound which is basically the ocean between the Exuma islands and Elrutha.

We had about 20 miles to go before we hit the Yellow Bank which is an area laden with coral heads in 10-20 feet of water.   What makes it dicey is that some of these coral heads are only a few feet below the surface.  Hitting one is considered a bad idea.

The general rule is to travel the banks slowly on a calm and sunny day.  Today is very windy with big swells and clouds.   It would be memorable if we ever took journeys like this adhering to the generally accepted practices.  In our case we were tired of Nassau, Mary was going stir crazy and we were spending way too much money, admittedly much if it at the Poop Deck. 

So we left.

Up close look at a corral head as we past by

The Yellow Bank is named that because… well I don’t know.  It’s just called that.  There are very easily identified coral heads scattered all over.  They are black, ominous looking things which defy an accurate reading as to how much water lies over them.

To complicate matters it was partially cloudy and discerning coral heads from the dark looking water due to cloud cover was a lesson learned.  Coral heads are a deep black and less sizable.

So we crept along for about 30 minutes and escaped them all before clicking on the auto pilot again and reading my book for the next 20 miles of deep, mostly clear water.

Rough seas and squalls

The only trouble now though was the 3-5 foot swells which were really 3-5 foot swells right on our beam.  When seas this high hit us on our side we roll.  It was uncomfortable but t least this time we didn't loose anything below, just some knick-knacks sliding off tables.

Once we were within a few miles of Highbourne Cay it settled down.

There were about a dozen boats anchored here and we went in between a catamaran and a Valiant 42 which was … Snow Flake. 

We set the anchor but we had dragged a bit while trying to set it so we took it up again and reset it.  This time it stuck fast and we put out 100’ because the winds were so strong.

Approaching Highbourne Cay and the anchorage

With that much chain out we weren't going anywhere but side to side since we swing a bit with such a large pendulum out there.  

The chain acts like a pendulum for us.  The more chain we have out the less likely we’ll drag the anchor but the more we swing on the chain.  Swinging is much better than dragging though.

Later in the evening I figured I might as well make water so I started the generator.  Uh oh … no cooling water being ejected.   Damn and I just changed that impeller.

Since dinner was ready (stir-fry with ginger and jalapenos my dear wife actually chopped up) we ate before I tackled the generator. 

Great dinner must have sparked my mechanical skills.  I went and cleaned out the sea strainer and found some debris but also noted the sea strainer cap appeared to be slightly askew.   That might have contributed to an air lock since we hadn't run the generator for several weeks.

I sealed everything back up and re-started it and the thing started spewing cooling water out like a normal generator should.  So we made water, ran the air conditioners, took nice hot showers and Mary watched some satellite TV. 

But before I went below I took a few minutes to gaze at the stars.  Wonderful!  The only light pollution was from Nassau way out on the horizon.  And from the two large boats here which were light up like a cruise ships.  I tried taking a picture but don’t think they’ll turn out.

I kept a fan running most of the night too.  The cool ocean breezes were blowing steadily but our stateroom in the back doesn't receive much of that air unless augmented by a mechanical device.  The fan works wonderfully and only draws about 40 watts.  It’s another weapon in our be-comfortable arsenal.

Tomorrow if the dinghy isn't giving us trouble we’re off to Allan’s Cay to meet the iguanas.

We had a delightful night here gently rocking in the mild swells and the air was cool for sleeping.  When I finally woke up several of the boats had left, no doubt moving further south.  We’re staying another day though before heading to south as well.  We’ll probably go to Shroud or Norman's Cay before getting to Warderick Wells where the Bahamas Land and Sea Park headquarters is located. 

Securely anchored.  Later we were surrounded by several sailboats

It was a leisurely morning which turned into not such a good morning.  We loitered around reading for a bit then decided to get the dinghy down.  Got it in the water and before we loaded it up I figured it might be a good idea to try the starter that Cess had re-built from spare parts he had lying around.

You can probably guess. It didn't  function properly.  Squealed and screeched worse than ever.  I just shut it down and we put it right back up aboard the boat and got the cover on it.  I was pretty disgusted because it limits us on what we can do here and greatly curtails any exploring we’d like to do.  There are all kinds of little islands around here, all reachable by our big dinghy.  If it was working.

We did start it up manually back in Nassau, but that was after it was warm and even then we had a heck of a time overcoming the compression so its not a sure thing.  But we’ll see.

Meanwhile we brought the small dinghy out, and got it inflated and in the water.  Then we practiced getting into it.  It’s a small and we've never both been in it.  Together.  So we practiced.  Mary came within a few inches of taking an unscheduled dive in the warm water but she managed to get orientated enough so the dinghy wasn't listing too much on its side. 

And then I crawled in and we didn't tip over.  And we proved it floats with both of us inside.  It doesn't list to either side if we’re careful.  And I think there will be enough room for me to operate the little engine.

So next, we get the engine down an after waiting a few minutes for several large wakes to pass, I got the engine on. 

Our very own Yugo

I tossed a radio and waterproof camera into the dinghy …. Oops not quite.  The radio went in the dinghy.  The camera went into the water.  Great!

Luckily the water is so clear it was visible on the bottom about 15 feet deep.  Ok, so I have dive gear.  Got my mask on and jumped in.  But I couldn't swim down far enough to reach the bottom.  I’m too buoyant in this salt water. 

 I tried twice and failed.  On the third try I was within grasping range of the camera when I sensed something next to me.   I quickly turned to see what it was and I found myself looking right into the beady eyes of a Nurse shark about a foot away.  I could have reached out and scratched his nose.  And  it was not small.  I'd classify it as huge but in fact it was longer than I was by maybe a foot or two.

So I was within reach of the camera with large shark assessing whether I’d go better with fries or coleslaw.  I didn't wait to find out and pretty much zoomed up to the surface and swam a dozen yards to the boat and up the ladder. 

Mary watched the whole thing and found it humorous.   I wasn't too amused at that point, just annoyed I missed retrieving the camera because of a large fish.  Albeit one that probably considers me restaurant fare, but still.  I was so close to fetching the camera back! 

I was torn with jumping back in and trying a retrieval operation again, but decided that another shark confrontation might be better had later in the day.  When it was gone.

So instead we clamored into the dinghy and the engine started right up.  We headed into shore but there were some wind driven swells in here and the dinghy is so small we’d take little slaps of water over the bow. 

I can only imagine how it would look from a distance … two people gliding on the water with a little engine and no discernible boat. 

The beach right in front of us

We made it to the beach and it was wonderful beach.  White sand, no stones only shells.  Mary found it delightful.  After we strolled around the beach a bit we hopped back in the dinghy which is another operation that I can imagine would be comical to those further away.  2 older adults flopping around trying to sit in this tiny thing.

We headed towards the end of the island where there is a small reef right across from Allen's Cay where the poor iguanas wait for grapes they’ll never see now.  But we really couldn't do much about it  since it’s hard for both of us to get on and off this thing unless we have a dock or can stand near shore.    And Allens Cay is 2 miles away which is across the inlet where rough seas aren't rare at all. 

So we headed back to another beach close by the first one and relaxed there for a while before returning to the boat.

We met Jim (Snow Flake) who invited us for cocktails but given they have a sailboat with no swim platform I suggested they come over to our boat.  So guess we are having a party.

Snow Flake with Jim and Burt aboard

After we were back I went in the water with my mask and fins this time.  I reasoned I could power my way down to 15 feet with the fins instead of hauling out our weight belts.

I jumped in, made a quick sweep for my pal, the nurse shark, and started looking for the camera again.  After a few minutes I finally saw it and, with the fins powering me down, reached it easily.  And no sea creatures interfering.

I took the opportunity to clean out the sea intake for the generator and then got out of the water, cleaned everything off just in time to close up all the open windows for a brief rain shower.   The forecast has been calling for continued squally weather and they seem to be right-on for a change.

After a little straightening up and vacuuming I made my chili dip as Jim and his friend Burt, drove their dinghy over to our boat.

It was a very nice time even through the 3 squalls we endured. These squalls are short bursts of heavy rain followed by a short period of showers before they blow off and sunshine resumes. 

They are heading down to Warderick Wells where we’ll end up at some point so we may see them again.  We exchanged phone numbers now so can stay in touch.

Jim is a semi re-tired patent attorney and Burt is a retired clinical lab administrator from a university in Galveston Texas.  The people you meet out here … it so fun!

Anchorage is getting crowded

Over the last few hours while Jim and Burt were here we've seen about a dozen boats come in and anchor.  And several mega yachts of at least 100 feet or more.  As the sunset the large yachts became beacons in the night with a stunning amount of lights both on the boat and underwater.  The submerged lights would cast this eerie glow in a large circle around the boat.  So much for star gazing.

Sunset looking towards Nassau and a small squall line

We’re trying to decide to either stay here, go to Normans Cay or Shroud Cay.  Or maybe even to Warderick Wells.  We have about 2 weeks before we have to begin heading back.  So I guess we’ll see what tomorrow brings.