April 27-30 2015 Great Harbor Cay

Last night I was hearing the water pump periodically go off an on.  Since no one was using water it had to be a leak so I shut the pump down and vowed to find the leak in the morning.

So now it’s morning and I diligently went through al the known leak points including the shower faucet access panel, and the master stateroom sink which requires removing a panel.

All the noise woke Mary up a little.   And no leaks.  Not even condensation.  I re-started the pump and after it pressurized the waterlines I sat listening listing for the pump to start up for 20 minutes.  I heard nothing.

Perhaps there really are gremlins and they've discovered another person to torment?

All I can figure out is it may have been the wind blowing and causing a harmonic that sounds like the water pump.  It has happened before now that I think about it.  And back then I went through the same exercise of checking all the leak points and finding nothing.  You’d think I’d learn?

We joined Jeff and Judy for a quick trip to a small beach on Hawks Nest Cay very near to where we are anchored.   Mary and Judy worked fervently to add to the bursting storehouse of dead biological artifacts we already drag around.  Are shells really all that fascinating?

Entering Sharks Creek

After the beach was cleansed of most everything judged collectible, we headed down Shark Creek.  So here's Jeff, a legally blind guy from Canada blasting down this very shallow, Mangrove creek (1.5 feet!) while I, the cautious one, went 5 mph. 

Looks like, well a little creek

Shark Creek runs from this anchorage to the other side of the island where we were anchored a few days ago.  It’s a short cut but as others have warned, even dinghies would fare better at high tide.  We went through on a rising tide which left some spots with very little water.  We had to weave around and try and find the deep spots but even so, we were kicking up mud and sand in much of the creek.  We even grounded a few times but I was able to just power through the soft sand/mud bottom.

Mangroves line the shore for most of the way

The creek emerges on the west side of the island and then there is a little over two mile run to the cut marking the entrance to the marina.  It was pretty rough on this side, but manageable.

On the way we passed the catamaran owned by the couple who run the kayaking tours.  It’s a big boat but odd in that it has a single large hull and then two outrigger hulls on the port side.  It looks like half a catamaran.  Wish I had snapped some pictures.  

At the gas dock

We arrived at the gas dock first and gassed up the dinghy.  Jeff and Judy rolled in soon after and he filled his gas cans.  The dock master showed us where to tie up so we could walk to the grocery store so we headed the short distance over there.

Precariously tied up for a quick grocery run

We literally had to tie up to a rock wall and get the lines around a couple of thin pine trees.  While Jeff worked to bail his dinghy and Mary relaxed, Judy and I walked to the grocery store. 

The place we tied up was a boat yard of sorts.  No one was around but there were plenty of boats and normal debris and equipment one finds in boat yards.  We walked maybe 3 blocks to the familiar grocery store next to the Police station and attached to the bar/liquor store. 

We stopped at the liquor store first.  Jeff needed rum.

Then we stepped next door to the grocery store and bought a few things including band aids for me since I sliced my finger earlier when I was removing the access panel to the shower water fixtures.

They had some surprisingly good oranges and, of course coke for Mary.

Judy, Mason and some friendly store employees

And we had to indulge in ice cream after having tasted it the day before.  And we met Mason, a real vibrant little 5 year old who was having his Junkanoo ice cream treat.  Junkanoo while also being a traditional street parade and carnival, is also the name of this multicolored mixture of ice cream flavors which Mary likes.  Seems Mason is quite fond of it too.

Judy and I each got a cup of ice cream and feeling kind I guess, brought back on for Jeff and Mary.  We had to walk back with them but not all of it melted by the time we returned.

Judy contemplating the mangroves inches away from her back 

We lingered briefly before heading back out to Shark Creek and the anchorage.  Judy rode with us so Jeff could keep his full gas cans on the dinghy floor.  And, as he maintains, he could go faster with her gone.  It did make it easier for them since he was soaked running through the 2 miles in the ocean to get to the marina.

The tide was up and Jeff, ever the adventurer, tore through the creek at full throttle leaving us behind.  We were more conservative and were doing maybe 10 mph.  After a while the radio crackled with the taunting, “Where the hell are you?  I've been back for hours”. 

 

In some places the dinghy barely squeezed through

We took Judy back to our boat for cocktails and Jeff followed with their stuff a few minutes later.

Cocktails.  We toasted Curt & Marilyn whoa aren't with us

We abandoned the idea of moving the boats over to the more northerly side of the bay to mitigate the expected northern winds tomorrow.  Jeff thought it wouldn't be rough where we were.  So I, feeling kind of lazy anyway agreed.   So here we stay!

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We woke up to some bouncing as the winds started  to pick up.  I shared my weather info with Judy with an email.  My subscription to Parker's weather service provides some rich forecasts for us to augment the more general information for Bahamas weather we receive from NOAA and other sources like Weather Underground and AccuWeather.

It wasn't looking pretty and our plans to head to a different anchorage I think will be put on hold.  The weather is going to turn squally and its better to be slightly uncomfortable here than be in a new anchorage with little knowledge of the area and its anchor holding characteristics.

We spent the day on the boat.   As the clouds formed I looked at the Miami radar website and it  gave us a muddied picture of showers on the way. 

Jeff came over and brought his laptop so I could give him some of my music and try and fix a driver issue he has been experiencing with a Bose Bluetooth speaker.

He went back to the boat and Mary and I took a dinghy ride after I found a proper driver for his computer.

Actually it really is a superb can crusher

I also located a piece of wood I’m using to crush cans.  They are much easier to store if they are crushed.  We don’t have any convenient avenue for re-cycling them here.  We have to carry them with us until we are in a marina again, most likely in Nassau in a week.

Looking at the weather though, I had the sudden desire to get the dinghy up on the sundeck and out of the water.  Nasty weather could mean we have to move the boat and with a dinghy hanging off the stern it can become difficult.  

So we got the dinghy up and secured.  This also gives me an opportunity to revisit this odd starter issue whereby the poor engine sounds like its struggling against something when I start it.  Then after a few seconds it’s fine.  I think its the starter.

They came back over for a bit to collect their laptop and have a drink.  He wanted to go back to his boat to complete a rain catchment system so he can collect rainwater.  Neat idea.  Large tarp with a hole in the middle to collect water and drain it into his water tanks.

After they left we found ourselves in a rain storm again.  Lots of rain, but not too much wind.

Another hour or so after that, really dark clouds heralding a cold front appeared in the east.  The mouth of the bay faces east meaning if there is any surge from that direction we’ll be rocking and rolling.

And then it hit.  Drenching rain and gusty winds, probably around 50 mph.  I was in the back not worrying too much about dragging because we had 75 feet of chain out and hadn't moved at all.

But … when I looked out at the shore line it was immediately apparent we were dragging.  A lot!

I went up and started both engines and started moving in the direction of the swells.  Mary came up and drove for a few minutes while I freed the snubber and brought up the anchor chain.  It took us many minutes but we finally got it all aboard and headed back out to deeper water.  We were, as best as I can tell, in about 5 feet of water and our draft is 4.5 feet.  Scary.

 Drenching rain, wind just howling and us trying to fight the waves while looking for a suitable place to toss the anchor so it would stay put this time.  Comical afterwards, but a little tense during.

Lots of rain in those clouds

We selected a spot that was lighter in color which usually indicates a sandy patch and dropped out 100 feet of chain and put the snubber on too.  And then we kept the engine running while we waited.  I set an anchor alarm on one of our tablets.  And we waited … and we weren't moving any appreciable distance. 

So we decided to shut the engines down and assumed we were hooked.  Boy I hope so because I’d hate to get up in the middle of the night and have to move again.

So here we are rocking side to side, sometimes violently.  But the anchor alarm app I have is showing us not really moving all that much so I think we are secured.  Besides the winds are supposed to clock around to the west which will put our bow towards shore and the swells on our stern.  Then if we drag anchor we’ll just drag out to sea  which is much better than dragging into the beach.

The rocking was caused by 3-4 swells rolling in from the ocean while our boat was point into the wind, perpendicular to the swell line.

It was not a comfortable night.  Neither of us slept much.  The almost violent side to side motion was vexing because you couldn't really sleep.  So we both sort of dozed most of the night.  At one point, around 5 AM I could hear the rumbling thunder again and assumed we’d be in for a major thunderstorm like before.  So I prepared.  Had the windlass on, flashlights because it was ink black outside, had two additional navigation devices and my BTC phone so I could watch the weather radar.

Radar was presenting a huge blotch of green with some red splotches heading for us, but more of a glancing blow.  We’ll get rain but probably not the heavy gusts of wind like before.

So I sat up on the fly bridge and sure enough soon we were in one of those drenching downpours where you can’t see anything because the rain is so heavy, and you can’t hear anything except the pelting rain.  It was almost like hail for a few minutes.  But no heavy winds.  And through it all we held just fine.  We also had water everywhere, but it was fresh water which is better than salt water.

Around 6:30 it was all over.  The violent side to side motions began to subside.  Those ocean swells moderated quickly until there was just a gentle rocking.  That’s when I fell asleep.

The later that morning Jeff woke us up saying he wanted to go to another anchorage near Devil Cay.

I was somewhat reluctant because the weather indicated high winds and swells from the SW which in this anchorage is good since the island provides protection.  Plus, Devils Cay is somewhat small with only fair holding.  And it isn't quite as protected as here from SW winds.

But, it sounded intriguing and I figured if it didn't work out we could always come back here.  The round trip mileage was about 30.

So we left even though the winds had picked up and the seas were 3-5 feet on the bow.

The seas got progressively worse and we began taking water over the bow at first and then an occasional blast over the bow and up and over the fly bridge.  Exciting!!  I even took a short movie of one of the less dramatic events.

Where we were headed to anchor

We arrived after they had turned into the inlet.  The anchorage is between 3 little islands and is protected except more open to the SW.  There is also a substantial current/surge flowing through there.   Jeff tucked back up in the corner and we tried and failed 6 times to get the anchor to catch.

The wind was very strong and combined with the current we were having difficulty getting the boat turned around enough to head into the wind/current while trying to find one of these sandy patches to anchor.

Our venerable old Bruce anchor is phenomenal in sandy and muddy bottoms, but sometimes difficult to set in grassy bottoms which is the case in most of Devils Cay.

I talked with the catamaran with was anchored in there before we arrived.  He was warning me he had out 150 feet of anchor rode (line) after one of our anchoring attempts was very near him.

After the 6^th try I wasn't willing to keep up what seemed to me, a futile effort so I radioed Jeff we were heading back to Great Harbor Cay.  By that time the winds had increased to the point where I was having a very difficult time keeping control of the boat.

That's Jeff and Judy's boat tucked in between the islands

So we left the same way we came in and enjoyed following seas most of the way up until we were neat Great Harbor Cay when we had to contend with a sudden flurry of beam seas which rocked us pretty good.

We ran into the anchorage and anchored in the NW corner in anticipation of the wind switch forecast for the following day.  Very nice here.  And secure.  We laid out 100 feet of chain in 12 feet of water with what looks like a good sandy bottom.  We are tucked in near a shallow sand bar which should help dampen any swell we’ll certainly experience tomorrow when the the winds are forecast to swing out of the NW.

The three other sailboats we were anchored near on the other side were still there so I guess we aren't too alone. 

Almost a nice sunset looking at Carriearl, the B&B

We chatted briefly with Jeff and Judy by phone.   Then made dinner, watched a Boston Legal episode and went to bed.  After the previously night we were both tuckered out.

We both slept like log last night.   The steady, 20 mph winds, moderated by the island gently rocked us all night long and provided a cooling breeze.   The humidity had turned much lower too so it was comfortable sleeping.

When I woke up this morning I turned on the hot spot of our BTC phone to check the weather and after a few minutes was cut off the internet.  Our 2 gig had been reached and we would need to replenish.

This phone has a hot spot capability which allows to us use the internet.  But, since it’s a pre-paid phone you have to add money to it in order to make calls.  For internet use, you can purchase a data plan, but only in 2 gig increments.  Once the 2 Gigs are used up, its possible to transfer money to purchase another two gigs of data.

We are able to make calls out but I haven't made the effort to try and and have our google number be called and have it ring our Bahamas phone.  Well, yet anyway.

We didn't do much all day.  Made pancakes, shared weather info with Jeff and Judy an also made plans to meet them at Cabbage Cay near Little Harbor Cay tomorrow.  There is a conch bar there, Flo’s, which is another one of those must do things.

After we talked with them, I went around and repaired some loose fittings, and hinges.  And I finally took the outboard apart and oiled up the starter shaft.  It was a bit sticky and wasn't sliding up and down as easily as I thought it should.  So we’ll see next time we start it.

The winds have picked up this afternoon and swung around to the NW now and we have some swells rocking us a bit here, but after peaking this evening it is supposed to moderate over the night time hours leaving us with what I hope will be a good traveling day.

Two of the three other sailboats moved over by us this morning too.  So now we have neighbors.

View from our boat

Meanwhile, Mary is ensconced on the couch and I’m writing this out on the sundeck overlooking the beach.  It maybe cloudy but it still has that “travel ad” look.

Think I’ll have to take a swim soon.  Water is in the mid 80’s here.  And being right in front of Carriearl, it is tempting to head in to the beach and drop in.  They have a such a comfortable bar/patio area.

But we are planning on leaving early tomorrow so perhaps not.  Besides its sprinkling out now and that will continue into the evening so guess we'll just stay on board.

April 25-26 Great Harbor Ocean side anchorage

Judy called Mary at 8:15 to get her up.  They left for the ocean side anchorage of Great Harbour Cay shortly after.  We followed suite about an hour after.

Aids to Navigation over here are basically, just a pole.

It was a lot bigger than what the picture portrays

As we rounded Stirrup Cays we came upon a Carnival line cruise ship, Majesty of the Seas which was disgorging people into the shuttle craft and ferrying them all to the island playground.  It's equipped  with a beach, shops, jet ski rental and other recreational activities like para sailing, .

The ship was anchored right off the island in about 50 feet of water and we cruised right across its bow between it and the island.

It took us another hour to get near the anchorage where we turned in and found a nice spot in 10 feet of water over grassy sand.  It was near where Jeff & Judy anchored. 

Anchored

We got everything secured, had 75 feet of chain out on the snubber and the boat seemed stuck like it should be.  Jeff & Judy dingied over and we got in ours and followed them to the Tiki Bar on the beach which, as reported by some fellow boaters, offers the most delicious hamburgers. 

Its right on the beach.  Nice place!  We had to anchor the dinghies off the beach a ways which wading in from about 4 feet of water.  But the water was 85 so there was no chilling exit and we were almost dry by the time we sat at the round bar.

Tiki Bar.  Bartender, Mary Judy and Jeff 

Bar is right on the beach.  Nice place.  

 We had some drinks and talked with a couple whom we met the day before at the marina.  The Adams.  They recommend the pizza at this little B&B up the beach a ways named Carriearl.  So we decided to try that this evening.

The really delicious hamburgers left us satiated as we left the bar.   Jeff & Judy went off to explore Pett Cay while we went poking around Shark Creek trying to find the deeper water so we could run to the other side of the island where we were anchored the last few days.  We got in about a ½ mile before turning back.  But I had the GPS on so had a route to follow when we try again tomorrow.

Our dinghies anchored in front of the tiki bar

We got back to the boat and I got out my mask and fins and dove on the anchor.

There it was in all its glory, 10 feet down lying upright with a huge ball of sand and grass attached.  It wasn't dug in at all.  But the weight of all that chain and the sand ball seems to be keeping us plunked in the same spot so I’ll just leave it until tomorrow.

Under that big ball of sand and grass is our anchor

I  cleaned the dinghy bottom off and found 2 big gouges on the dinghy keel.  Guess I have another project.  And the darn outboard is making strange noises when it starts up again.

We dressed for dinner meaning I put my swim suite back and headed over to get Jeff & Judy.  We raced along the shore about a mile to Carriearls which is right on the beach.  I had to run the dinghy all the way up on the beach so Mary could hop out without getting too wet.  But the swells were pushing the dinghy sideways and we almost had it grounded before I got it turned around and pushed out into the water again.  Tossed the anchor out and waded out and flagged Jeff and Judy so they new where the place was located.

Inside dinning room and a gathering room

What a delight.  I don’t think I've ever felt so comfortable in a restaurant/B&B before.  Hard to explain why.  It was just comfortable.  Maybe it was all the wide open spaces and comfy furniture.  And very laid back, pressurized manner of everyone there.

Judy and Jeff who's freshly coiffed  

Angie and Marty, two Brits run the place.  It was a house they purchased 12 years ago with ideas of refurnishing it and selling it ended up becoming this out of the way B&B.  It's a 4 bedroom place which means its not very crowded.  The restaurant though, sees plenty of non-guests like us wading in from the beach.

The food was really superb.  5 star jewel in the middle of now where.

Pergola covered deck over looking the pool and ocean

We stayed until past sundown so I had to download a flashlight app for my new BTC phone and we used that to walk the 100 yards back  to the beach.  Then we had to get in the dinghy which was  bouncing heavy surf and head out in the dark towards the boat.   We’d forgotten to turn on the anchor light but I had my little $1 solar lights on the stern and bow so I found our boat rather easily.

I started up the generator to give the batteries a charge and more importantly to cool the boat down with the A/C units.  The boat can get surprisingly warm in the sun, upwards of 80's even with all the hatches and windows open.  However we have a number of successful tests with using window fans to exhaust the hot air in the rear stateroom so I think that will be an assured purchase in Nassau.

I only ran the gen set until 11.  I was just too tired to stay up any longer.  How far we've sunk, from parties until 2AM.  But I did find the Great Harbor Cay map:

Lower map is the town as it were.  Upper map shows the whole island.

Moving the boat at tortuous hour of 7:15AM

This morning, Sunday I woke up around 6AM to howling SW wind.  Remembering our unburied anchor I checks and sure enough we had drifted back a few hundred yards.  So I had to roust Mary and we both prepared to raise the anchor. and this was without the benefit of coffee.  Kudos to Mary for participating in a coffee-less anchoring procedure!

It wasn't easy since the wind was so strong.  I had to motor ahead to take the slack out of the chain so the windlass wouldn't struggle so much trying to hail it up.  At one point the wind jammed the snubber line on the anchor roller so I has to let more chain out so Mary could remove the chain hook.  But we got it done and motored perhaps 3/4 of a mile to a location closer to the western shore for some protection from the strong winds. 

This time the anchor stuck fast.  Once it did the boat swung quickly around to point into the wind.  We let out another 80 feet of chain, attached the snubber and we were done.  I'll probably dive on it later this afternoon to be sure since these winds are abating anytime soon.


Mary napped until about 1 since we had gotten up so early today.  We took the dinghy into the beach where it was much calmer and walked up to the tiki bar again.  I called Jeff & Judy on the phone and they said they'd come join us there.  

Meanwhile we met this delightful German, Jorg who was involved in a start-up energy company which was concentrating on some new, compact designs for medium sized wind turbines and a water washing machine which is the size of a typical washing machine but can cleanse 2,000 liters of dirty water per day with only 1 kilowatt of power.  The marriage of the wind turbines and this little device is pretty much complete so he's been trying to convince the government here to try one out.  

He's off to Cuba tomorrow to talk with them.  

He lives in Beirut with his family and seems to be quite comfortable existing there with his 2 kids and wife.  Beirut, he tells me is the hub of business over there.  Most business flows through a sort of, "who you know middle men".  Very interesting fellow, Jorg.

Jeff and Judy

After we all took a walk along the beach and then headed back to the boats.  We are tired after all this

Mary

boat moving this morning.  And the winds have died down now so its most calm here in the bay.  Tomorrow though the winds are supposed to be clocking around to the NW which may make thing exciting.

But I signed up for a weather service with Chris Parker so we get some concise forecasts which many have touted as been the most accurate.  We'll have to wait and see how that pans out.

View from our back window

So for now we're sitting in the boat looking out at a calm anchorage.  Very nice!

April 24 2015 Great Harbor Island

Jeff and Judy headed over to the gas dock rather early today, 8:30.

I untied his lines and off they went while I was trying to decipher the weather reports and reach a decision about heading to the ocean side or staying put here.

We figured out the NW winds would be tolerable here and I didn't want to be beaten up running the 9 miles to the ocean side anchorage with large swells.  So Jeff and Judy decided to stay as well but headed about a mile in towards the far northern shore near Rat Key to escape the bouncing from the NW winds and swells.

We don’t bounce that much being too bulky (fat?) to be affected much by 3 foot waves.  So we stayed put.

We napped (Mary) or putzed (me) until 2:30 when I figured if we were going to the marina to dump our garbage we’d better do it soon because it was rough and the dinghy, capable as it is, can make a ride pretty wet and uncomfortable in heavy seas.  Winds typically strengthen for a short time a the sun sets.

I gently woke Mary up and we loaded the dinghy and headed in to the marina which is maybe a mile away.

Marina let us tie up in a 60 foot slip

The dock master told us to tie up in a big slip equipped with a ladder which we did.  Mary discreetly placed our stinky garbage bag in one of the garbage containers and I talked with the dock master about staying and directions to the beach.

She just gave me a map and didn't charge us anything.  And here I brought several hundred dollars with me anticipating large fees.  

I quickly studied the map and or some inexplicable reason I turned the wrong way and headed to Bridget Bardot Beach.  It’s a beach where she is reputed to have worked on her overall tan for many years and for all I know maybe still does. 

Once I caught my error we reversed course and headed back towards Sugar Beach on the other side of

Walking back from my navigational error

the island.  One couple I briefly exchanged a few words with in the office were driving towards BB beach and offered us a ride which we declined citing walking as a good exercise. I had mistakenly thought they were boaters.  Turns out they just flew in from New England.  Oops ..  And yes, they own their own jet.

There is a green here.  

We walked for about a mile past what appeared to be a golf course but one which has abandon the more traditional manicured look for the camouflaged green look whereby the greens are not discernible from the surrounding terrain.  The surrounding terrain is pretty much patchy scrub grass with what looks like trip vine and bush like weeds.   

Even though my clubs are aboard I didn’t pursue any golf today. 

We passed two squished snakes of unknown pedigree which lent credence to my decision to forgo golf in favor of a beach walk.  The snakes were on the road right in front of one of the greens.  I like to hit my golf balls in the trees, water and heavy undergrowth.  Perfect habitat for our slithering brethren.  Beside there wasn't one person any where remotely near the course.  I dont think golf is a favored local activity.  

Did I mention we will be anchoring here tomorrow because we delayed our plans to do it today based on the weather?  Winds should be clocking around to a more southerly flow and this anchorage should offer adequate protection for us.

I never dreamed that winds, tides and wave periods would be come such an integral part of out lives.  Who knew.

There was a surprising amount of traffic on the narrow (but paved) road.  It is odd that here on an island with maybe 800 residents there are trucks, SUV’s, a hot rod and numerous other cars.  The island is only about 7 miles long and maybe a mile or two in width.

Walking on the road towards the beach a kindly lady slowed down and asked if we were exercising or needed a ride.  We said exercising and she immediately replied the beach was right up the road.

Beach access along a path next to this place

To access the beach there, is a path through brush and between some sumptuous houses.    It was maybe a 1/4 mile hike.  But once we reached the beach it was, well gorgeous.  Brilliant turquoise water with deeper blue out beyond the beach.  Just like a magazine ad.  And the sand is soft and sugary much like the sand beaches at Destin.  

We lingered for about a half hour before heading back.  We met another couple who heading to the beach.  Seems it’s a popular place.  There are several condo/villas on the southern side of the bay and the beach rings the whole bay which is maybe 2 miles.  

Abandoned club house of some sort

Walking along the road we, again, passed this abandon club house or building whose purpose I cant fathom.  There was a bridge over the road we took which appeared to be integrated into the house.

Back at the marina we stopped in at the store so Mary could refuel.  Very nice man who, I think, runs the marina. 

We also met another couple in there who are anchored out on their big catamaran well south of us.  They are from the states and stay down here for the high season running a sort of kayaking/wind surfing excursions where you stay on their big boat and they take you to various islands around here for kayaking adventures.  The high season runs from May through November.  I thought it would have been November through April.  

We were invited to the Marina’s Friday night party with lots of food and drink but we declined and juts headed back to the boat.  It was very rough out past the nice little protected basin.

We finally talked with Jeff and Judy.  We seemed to have missed each other all day on the radio and the phones.  We each have BTC (Bahama Telephone Company) phones and can make calls to one another. 

Given the lure of the weather and the anchorage we decided to leave tomorrow for that beach anchorage and stay for a few days until the weather gets bad early next week.

April 21-24 Journeying to Great Harbor Cay (Berry Islands)

On the T-head where we are tied, the sailboat, and two other boats left a few hours before we were even up.  That left us with an empty dock and plenty of maneuvering space. 

Leaving Bimini

We started to prepare for departing when one of the inter-island ferries pulled in and took up most of the channel trying to get into the government dock which parallels the harbor.  Once he was close Jeff pulled out followed by us and we were on our way..

We went right past the Resorts World cruise ship dock which was hosting one of their cruise ships.  Seems they run out of Miami taking people to the resort for a few days.

We rounded the north rock and entered the Bahamas Banks.  And then our Navigation system decide to flip its orientation, probably caused by the odd scale of the electronic C-map Bahamas chart.

Cruise ship at their dock

North Rock point

I had the chart zoomed in but it wasn't showing any boat movement.  Turns out the scale I usually use for all of our other charts is much smaller on the C-maps charts.  The boat appeared to be making no movement simply because the charting software couldn’t plot it.  Once I corrected that, all was ok again, but meanwhile we made a big circling zigzag cutting right across Just Faking It’s bow.

But we got everything sorted out and hunkered down for the 6 hour run to Mackie Shoals where we’ll be spending the night.

It wasn't calm.  Another weather forecasting error perhaps?  2-4 footers on our beam made for an uncomfortable ride.  The forecast I read was 2 foot swells and light SE winds.  Not so.  Maybe I’ll buy a suitable coin and begin tossing it for weather predictions?

We also ran through a short burst of rain showers.  Its nice to have the salt washed off but it also means we have to close up the boat.  Not so comfortable when its 90 degrees and 90% humidity.  Gets hot!

Mackie Shoals is literally in the middle of no where.  Next nearest anchorage is another 60 miles for east and neither of us want to have another 11 hour run, especially in these beam seas.

Just Fakin It anchoring at Mackie Shoals

The winds moderated somewhat as did the swells by the time we arrived.  It’s very odd to be out of sight of any land, and anchoring.  We put out about 75 feet of chain and the snubber in 12 feet of water with swells lifting the bow up several feet every few minutes.

We aren’t uncomfortable, just bobbing up and down.  Big heavy tubs like ours smooth out the wave action.

So here we sit until tomorrow morning!  I’m betting we’ll be grilling tonight!

We did start to prepare dinner except one problem erupted.  The stove wouldn't work.  The circuit breaker for the stove remained unlit and the stove followed suit by not lighting. 

Uh Oh.

We went to bed without stove cooked food.  I know.  How can we suffer so.   Well we are least I was able to grill a steak.

Around 4AM, I woke up on the sundeck to lightening.  I was out there because it was hovering around 83 in the staterooms and I just can't sleep in that kind of heat.

Since I was up I ran around and closed all the hatches and windows and then went back to bed in the forward cabin where the hatches were all open.  It was cooler in there and also afforded me the ability to wake up when the rain began since the open hatches would allow rain to pelt my face.

And sure enough it began to lightening, thunder and then deluge!  Lots of rain which soaked everything but also washed all the salt off.

My biggest fear was a lightening strike.  We were 50 miles from any land, 100 miles from any repair facility, and in the middle of a large sea with a few boats scattered around possibly within radio range.  Quite surreal. 

But we survived as did Just Fakin It.

We left around 8:30 this morning for the 54 mile journey to Great Harbor Cay where we plan to anchor.  We ran into a few rain showers, brief little spurts of rain but otherwise it was very pleasant.  Gentle swells and cool (70’s) temperatures.

Great Harbor Cay.  Government Dock in the distance

Nice.  Until we closed within 20 miles of the Cay when it began to get rough again with elevated winds.

One thing that was disconcerting was the water depth.  It was basically 14-16 feet deep for miles and miles.  But when one peered into the depths you’d swear it was 5 feet deep. It was that clear.

We arrived at Great Harbor Cay and the Bullocks Harbor where we anchored.  The weather had moderated quite a bit so we found ourselves in very light SE winds and calm seas.

Rafted up!

We anchored and Jeff and Judy rafted up along side us.  They needed water and since we have a water maker we filled their tanks.  And then had a little cocktail party for a few hours.  Very reminiscent of our time on the rivers.

Cocktail time with Judy, Mary and Jeff.

They went back to their boat to eat and we grilled an then tested the satellite which actually worked this time giving us most of our normal channels.  Mary is ecstatic.

Soon, to bed and big day tomorrow exploring the town.

Sunset t Great Harbor.

With our new Bahamas phone we have internet access.  Very welcome system design.  All the phones have hot spots as part of their bundled software.  You pay for bytes used and that's all.  Its a pre-paid phone and has the ability to add minutes to the phone by calling a certain number.  You can add money via their Ez Top-off website and then top off your phone with data (2GB limit) or talking minutes.  Quite simple and works very well.   

Next morning we all slept late,  All we had planned today was going to town and visiting the marina to get gas for Jeff.

I should mention that this morning a surprising number of roosters on the island began crowing loudly enough for me to hear way out here.  At 4:30 AM. 

Before we leave though I had to get the stove fixed before indulging in play time.  I didn't want that hanging over our heads all day.

So I started by checked the circuit breaker and it had power although the light was out.  Took the stove out looking for a gas solenoid and it wasn't there.  Put the stove back in and headed up to where the propane tanks are.  Cleared out that area and lo and behold there was the solenoid.  And sure enough thee was a corroded wire hanging loose.  I was so badly corroded the connectors pretty much disintegrated in my hand.

After 20 minutes of cutting wire and cleaning contacts we were back in business.  So tonight I can make chili dipping sauce on the stove!  

Next I took the troublesome VHF radio and cleaned up the antenna contacts.  It seems to be work again.  I hope.  

By then Judy came over and while I put everything back she and Mary decided we were going to town.

We got our dinghy down and so did Jeff and Judy.  We had ours running and went tout a little past where were anchored when I heard Jeff shout so we came back. 

Jeff tinkering with his outboard

Their Mercury 15HP outboard wouldn't start.  Instead of fiddling with it we just loaded everything into out dinghy and headed over to the Great Harbor Marina to fuel up Jeff’s gas cans. 

You enter the marina through a little canal-like entrance hewn out of solid rock.  Going through it then opens up nicely into a little bay.  The marina is located way at the end and around corner.  Its pretty tight in there and no gas dock.  Seems we ran right past the islands gas dock coming in through the little canal.

Canal-like entrance to the basin

After the nice man told us where to go for gas we headed out of the marina basin along with another dinghy with a couple, as it turns out, who anchored their Krogen 36 on the other side of the island where there is this beautiful beach and anchorage.

We picked their brains as we went out of the marina.  They even mentioned Shark Creek which is a little creek that you can take your dinghy through to get to the their side of and that anchorage.

They left us to go to town through some other short cut I didn't quite see while we went to the fuel dock where Jeff filled up is gas cans.  It’s only around $4.80 a gallon.

We came back to the boats to drop off the gas and headed the short distance to government dock where there is an area where you can tie up.

Our dinghy(at the end) securely locked to Government Pier

We've been warned to always lock the dinghy and so we did although it’s still a foreign idea to me.

Walking up into town from the dinghy dock.

Not a Walmart

We walked up the main road past the church and school and.  Asked a nice lady where the police station was because we were told that’s where the best bar and grocery store is located. 

Sign for Cooliemae's

But we wanted to try CoolieMae’s Restaurant because, again, we were told it was the place to go for good fritters of the conch variety. 

Inside Cooliemae's.  Good conch Fritters!

We walked up the half block past the police station (and administrative offices) to the CoolieMae’s sign and headed up the short dirt road to a nice little house-like building overlooking the water and coincidentally our boats too.  We were anchored right out in front about ½ mile off shore. 

It’s a very nice place and the owner, Godfry was there.  He has 13 children and 24 grandchildren.  We even met a few of them when the school let out right before we left.

We all had a beer, and ordered conch fritters.  They were yummy.  Fresh, soft and well, yummy.   It’s a place to revisit when we return.

Next we headed to the grocery store which was benefiting from the supply boat that had arrived late last night.  Lots of stuff to buy even fresh fruits!

And ice cream.  We all had ice cream including the sales clerk’s little girl!   And then the ladie’s husband wandered in, the local constable, and we all had a good chuckle as he repeatedly hugged his wife.  Official duties seem to include wifely affection.

Getting ice cream

On the way back to the dinghy we saw some guys with conch shells.  We walked over and they were banging the shells with a hammer, and then cutting into the them at specific soft spot. 

Extracting conch from their shells

It leaves a slit in the shell where they extract the conch.  Very neat.  The guy told me it’s more of an art since you can’t really explain where this soft section of the shell is located.

Marys shell.  My bucket of bleach and water

Of course Mary had to have a nice pink one.  Another shell on the boat.  We may end up opening up a floating shell store.  Inventory would be no problem.

It was looking rather threatening off to the north and we had been watching Miami TV at CoolieMaes.  Miami is a little north of us here at Great Harbor Cay.  The station, like most TV, was trumpeting the ‘severe” storm and how to endure it.

Was it the end of the world?  Well, maybe not quite yet, but it must be mighty close from how they were presenting it.  From what I could discern, it was your basic thunderstorm.

But is was moving southwest which means we will get some rain although I don’t think it will approach the severity of what we had two nights ago out on Mackie Shoal.

Once back on the boat Jeff tinkered with his outboard and I did a few things around the boat before helping him swap out his broken Mercury 15HP for his Yamaha 8HP which he’s been carrying around and trying to sell.

Meanwhile it started to rain.  But only lightly, as the bulk of the rain seemed to have moved past us to the southwest.  Still humid though.  We have to make water tonight so at least we can run the A/C and rid the boat of some of the humidity.

We skipped the usual cocktail party to night.  

Tomorrow we’re going around the island to anchor in this more idyllic anchorage with the sand beach and Tiki Bar. A much better place to munch on chili dip.

The calm after the storm

 This idyllic anchorage  is almost opposite of us on the other side of the island.  But we have to get there by going north around Great Stirrup Cay where cruise ships expel hordes of passengers to play in the sand and surf for a few hours before heading back to the ship and departing for the next port.

As its been noted by others, if you do go by while the cruise ships are there, you become part of the scenery and will end up in countless thousands of pictures. 

Not sure if we’ll experience that but we’ll see tomorrow.