May 7-8 Nassau

We were up at the crack of 7AM this morning.  It took me awhile to disconnect all the dockside electrical connections and start up all the electronics.  But it gave Mary enough time to wake up and drink some coffee. 

Calm morning for our departure

Jeff and Judy took care of our lines and we eased out of the dock, made a 90 degree pivot and off we went.

The navigation software is still a little funky. It doesn't update very quickly and I think its because of the charts (C-Map) we are using.  Anyway we are headed in the right direction so no worries.  We were actually following a boat that had left the marina s short while before us.

Leaving Chub Cay behind

Since the water was looking suspicious at the dock last night I chose to start the generator and make water as we ran towards Nassau.  Only took a few hours and Mary did a few loads of laundry on the way.

The protocol for entering Nassau Harbor requires that all vessels, even little cruising boats like ours, call Harbor Control to ask permission to enter the harbor.

Mary called the on the VHF radio and they asked for destination, documentation number and last port of call.  Took all of a minute when we heard “permission granted”.

Nassau Harbor

The harbor is a busy commercial port.  And cruise ship port.  We passed two of the behemoths in their berths as we made our way into the harbor. 

We both wanted to fuel up before we got into the marina so I called the Hurricane Hole Marina fuel dock which is located between the 2 bridges and identified by the bright red awning covering the office.  The actual marina itself is set back into a basin on Paradise Island.

Passing by Atlantis

The two bridges connect Nassau with Paradise Island where large resort, Atlantis is located.  

Atlantis is quite the sprawling entity.  We could tie up there for $4.75/foot.  What a bargain.  Where only playing $2.15/foot at the Nassau Yacht Haven marina.

There is swift current running through Nassau Harbor during certain times of the day.  It follows the tide and can be pretty daunting.  And since we never seem to do things easily, this was one of those times.  But luckily the current was running towards us which makes maneuvering the boat much easier compared to have the current push you along.

The fuel dock was rather small and we took up all most the whole dock.  Jeff had to nuzzle up to the side dock after we figured out he wouldn't fit next to us.

We filled up with 208 gallons of diesel.  That’s how much we used coming from Marathon to Nassau including the generator run time.  Not to bad for a big boat.  The price was $4.18 / gal but for around here that’s not too terrible.  We’ll have enough fuel to get well down the Exumas chain and return to Ft. Lauderdale without a problem.

Yacht Haven Marina

One we were finished fueling we headed over to the Yacht Haven Dock.  Luckily they had a spot for us where we could tie alongside.  We needed this arrangement so we could lower the dinghy and see if my fix actually fixed it.  I’m not holding out much hope but I’d have to get it down anyway to have it repaired.

I was backing into this spot right behind Lady Sandals

The only trouble was the dock space they wanted us to use.  It was on the mega yacht dock and we would be backing into spot right in front of a huge yacht, Lady Sandals.   With all these mega yachts surrounding us we were like the proverbial flea on an elephants back.

It was only mildly exciting and we did fine and the deck hand was a very good.  Backing that far down to a dock where a many million dollar yacht sat created a bit of suspense but it worked out fine.  Guess we now have a new skill.

But the other issue was location.  We were right next to the commercial docks and a waterway used by many of the tour boats and fishing charters.  That translates into a wonderful mix of boat wakes.  The mega yachts don’t even move with such trivial, to them, wakes.  But we’re tiny and rock and roll with gusto.  At least the wakes die down at night or so Obie, the dock hand told us.

We are adjacent to one of the commercial docks

After spending an hour getting the lines setup and fenders deployed we headed to the marina office to do the paperwork.  Then we met Jeff & Judy up at the Poop Deck, a notorious bar and restaurant for drinks.

Walking to the marina office

It’s an interesting place with many photographs of celebrities and of English warships.  And a lively clientele.  We talked with several people, expats I guess, who knew all kinds of details about the area. 

The Poop Deck

One, Richard a Canadian, mentioned a marina on the east end of the island, Palm Cay Marina.  He described it as being a phenomenal place.  And cheap.  So we may have to try that on the return journey.

We lingered for a while but elected not to eat dinner there and instead went back to the boat.

Mary decided she wanted to wash the boat down and asked one of the deck hands from Lady Sandals behind us if we could use their hose.  He said sure and Mary started washing but the weak steam of the water was a bit disappointing.  Meanwhile Josh and his girlfriend who worked on Lady Sandals as well, shared some information about the area and the marina.  His opinion was not to use dock water without a filter.  And for a lively time and good food, walk down a few blocks to  Potters Cay where all the small little structures are located.  It’s like a little flea market and food/bar court with live music.

But we have been warned repeatedly not to venture off the marina grounds after sunset because crime here is rampant.  We’ll have to see.

Joel also mentioned Lady Sandals is owned by the guy who owns the Sandalwood resorts/hotels.    Guess we’re in the high rent district for a time.  Here's a Facebook page describing the boat 

Mary finished the wash down and we put everything back and ate aboard before turning in early.  I had the A/C units running so it was nice and cool inside the cabin.

Jeff and I went to the Yamaha dealer this morning.  He, to check on his new 2-stroke Yamaha 15hp and  me to inquire about repairing the dinghy outboard.  His motor will be in around Tuesday and my outboard will be hopefully repaired when they haul it out on Monday.  So it seems we are closing in

Yamaha Dealer and marine store

on a departure of next Wednesday.  Far longer than we wanted to be here, but at least in our case it’s a better alternative to stay here for repairs than being stranded on one of those outer islands which are really in the middle of nowhere.

Street side of the marina office and Poop deck next door

After we returned we all met at the marina office where Jeff and Judy met Dyson a computer guy who was willing to try and fix Jeff’s laptop.  Dyson's 41 and is easing himself out of the IT career because he's grown tired of it.  That's the reason he gives for working at the marina now and only dabbling with computers occasionally.

Following our guide to the grocery store, about 1/2 mile away

We then headed off to the grocery store but bumped into a guy who said we should go to the mall up the street because it was a shorter walk.  So we followed him and found a Publix like grocery store, Solomon’s Fresh foods. 

Our guide in the green shirt

It had pretty much everything you’d normally expect in a grocery store.  Great place, and hugely expensive.  And I mean really expensive.

Truly just as well stocked as a typical Publix 

No car so we haul our purchases back

I ducked into the liquor store across the way and discovered they were out of Captain Morgan rum.  And they also carried no Seltzer water.  I’ll have to try the other grocery store and see if they carry it.

We returned and hung around the boat.  I did go out briefly to verify where I have to drive the dinghy Monday morning at 8:30 so they can lift it out to figure out what needs repairing.  Jeff and I cant figure it out so I guess we need the professionals,

Later I wondered over to Jeff’s boat while Dyson was there and we had a joint effort trying to get Jeff’s laptop talking to his Bluetooth Bose speaker.  No joy though.

We had dinner on board, and then I walked to the showers and had a most interesting conversation with one of the guys off a schooner that’s tied up near us, Liberty Clipper.  He was a young guy an wanted to travel so he hooked up to crew on this large wooden schooner which does charters and here in the Bahamas and Boston during the summers.  Great to hear how adventurous he was and how he wanted to travel, not worrying so much about monetary issues.

May 6 Chub Cay

We woke up and didn't do much until noon when we took some laundry over to wash it with the idea we’d bring it back aboard and dry it now that we can power the dryer.

Usually, well the two times before, when we do laundry we stop at the store for Mary’s soda.  This time it was closed!  The specter of soda withdrawal loops closely ...

Once we took care of the laundry and I had the dryer running without blowing the 30 amp breaker, we all strolled over to where they are constructing new and colorful dwellings (sorry, no pictures because I forgot to bring my phone and camera)  and then headed to the pool.   We chatted with several other couples who were there and who had just arrived from Nassau and Bimini on boats.

The pool was cool just like yesterday.  We only lingered a few hours before heading back to the boat to get ready for the trek to the Bonefish Grill out by the airport. 

I called out there again but something was sounding suspicious and as it turns out I was calling the marina restaurant, not the Bonefish Grill.  It’s difficult to understand these guys sometimes and this was one of those times.  Neither I or the guy at the marina restaurant identified which restaurant I was calling about.  It finally clicked that the hours for dinner where exactly the same as the hours posted on the restaurants poster board. Oops!

Judy, who had Saulie's real number tried calling.  No answer.   But being and adventurous group we decided to walk there anyway.  And happily it was open! 

Mary, Jeff and Judy

But Saulie the owner and cook wasn't there.  And they had no seltzer water.  And they had no ice!  And since Saluie wasn't there,  no food either.

Bar tender who wasn't happy with Saulie

So we just had a beer and got a ride back to the marina in the local constable's truck.  Jeff and I sat in the back and the girls in the cab.   

Mary in the constable's truck

Judy about to hop in.  Note the red lights

The constable had just stopped in to drop something off and agreed to give s a ride back to the marina.  His office and house were right next door so it wasn't a out of the way for him to drop us off.

Since it was late we all went to the marina restaurant and ate expensive and rather mediocre food.  Had some nice conversations with the other boaters there including two ladies who were at the pool with us earlier.  

Seems like everyone is leaving tomorrow!  And we are too!

May 5 2015 Chub Cay

It was not a particularly exciting day.

The weather gurus now predict a named tropical storm forming right over us.  But luckily it will move rapidly north and strengthen which means we wont effect us very much.  Maybe some elevated winds for a short time.  But only a small chance of squalls.

Meanwhile it was cloudy all day with on and off sprinkles.  We decided  to walk to the Airport again and see if the restaurant was open.  It wasn't but we didn't know that until we walked the 1.5 miles.

Peacocks on Chub Cay.  Who knew

Headed back and saw a peacock of all things.  I didn't know there were any on the island.

We had to stop at the store to buy Mary her soda and ice cream.  And then went back to the boat and after a bit headed to the pool.

The pool was deserted except for those seagulls splashing at one end of the pool again.  The water, fresh and chlorinated, wasn't quite up to the temps we're used to now.  It was down right chilly.  But we waded around anyway.

Splitter plugged into an extension cord

Extension cord plugged into the boat energizing the secondary buss

After returning I had a note about hooking up our second AC buss using only a single 30 amp circuit.  Basically I had to string an extension cord up to the fly bridge after plugging it into the unused plug of the 30 amp splitter.

So what you maybe be asking?  Well, doing this makes it possible to run the water heater and other A/C units as well as the washer and dryer all off of a 30 amp circuit.  Normally we need a 50 amp circuit to do this.  The only alternative would be to run the generator.

After that was taken care of we decided to forgo making dinner and instead walked to the expensive restaurant here on the grounds.  We had salad cravings and after a 3 figure bill those cravings melted away.

So then it was back to the boat and bed, or in Mary's case watching TV where seemingly famous people dance and then listen to three blowhards tell them how well they did.  I dont get it but I maybe in the minority on this one.

May 3-4 2015 Chub Cay

The weather is consistently cloudy, and breezy this morning.  No, that’s not quite accurate.  Its darn windy! 

We've seen quite a few boats arrive and then depart over the last day or so.  This morning, a 84 foot DeFever came in as a Grand Banks was leaving.

Not sure where they are all headed but the open waters are showing 7-9 foot waves.  Way to bouncy for us.

Forecasting models all disagree but there still lingers this chance that we may see a sub tropical Low tropical form right over us.  Actually the latest predictions are giving it an 80% chance of it forming  with sufficient strength to be honored with a number and a name.  If it is a named storm, the name will be  “Anna” so they tell me.  But for now we’re just staying here and waiting to see what happens.

Church

And inside the church

We decided to try and find this other restaurant, Bonefish bar and grill out near the airport.  At the beginning of the road there is what appears to be a newly built church.  Mary had to peek inside.

The road leading there is basically a dirt road with little pockets of houses.  Not houses, but HOUSES!  Large.  And the landscaping on some is impeccable but they all are exquisitely designed from what we could tell just walking by.  

We're located at the blue dot.  Airport runway is at the top of island

Google maps isn't to terribly useful here. 

Turn left at the pink wall to go to the airport

After a mile of walking on this dirt road with the tree canopy we followed the curve of the road by the pink wall/fence along one of the houses and another ½ mile there was the airport

The main road.  And the road to the airport

As we approached we watched a twin turbo prop plane take off.  He climbed up and banked out across the ocean and then made a bee line for the airport and seemingly right at us.  He had a slight down angle and at first I thought he was going to crash, but he zoomed low right over the runway and then made a steep climb up to clear the trees that lines the other side of the runway.  I couldn't get the camera out in time or I'd have had a picture.

A subtle wave of the wings and then he sped off to the north.  Not sure what that was all about, but it was interesting.

Airport office

We went into the little building which serves as a terminal of sorts and spoke to 2 men who seemed to be some sort of officials in part because of their badges and belt radios.  I asked about the restaurant near the airport and they directed us to the Bonefish grill which was just off the runway facing the water on the banks.

Waling to the little yellow bar along the runway

The path to the bar

We followed the little path to the place and walked in.  Three other people were there along with the smiling, bouncy bar tender.

Bonefish Grill.  The runway is behind the building

Inside the Bonefish Grill

No food because Saulie, the owner and cook was in Nassau.  So we were limited to drinks.  We sat at the bar for a few minutes and I had nice conversation with one of the guys who works at the marina.  Well, its really a marina/resort.  We spoke mainly about the lack of priorities and the non-working washing machines and dryers.  He said he’d see what could be done.  Nice man!

After a few minutes we walked outside and sat on the porch to finish or beers.  Went to use their bathroom(s) and then headed back across the runway to the road and back to the boat. 

Runway Walker

The whole journey was about 3 miles so tomorrow when Saulie returns we’ll walk back this way again for lunch.

Chickens in the Constable's back yard

As we arrived at the marina basin we had to stop at the local constable's house and observe the chickens and the little chicks.  And the damn rooster who crows at 4AM.  He avoided us.  The others just ignored us.

Sorry Kath.  I cant tell what kind of chickens they are.  But we asked the the constables wife if she was able to collect any eggs.  She replied no, because she can never find where they lay them.  But lay they do because there are a good dozen little chicks running around.

I left Mary at the boat and continued on to check out the rest of the marina/resort.

Pool overlooking the beach

Beach

Main clubhouse near the pool

It seems this place has been a destination for sport fisherman since the 70’s.  It was bought by some investors early in 2000 and worked progressed until the initial cash outlay was exhausted and the bank foreclosed.  It sat undeveloped until a few years ago when an Oklahoma oil baron bought it and started pouring money into developing it into a first class resort again. 

The marina is deep, with floating docks and is very well protected in a basin.  The new houses they've built are stunning.

The working machine has its li up

But … 

The showers and bathrooms are decrepit, the washers/dryers don’t work, and the grounds are all torn up with construction going on.  If there were any other marinas around that we could reach in a short time we' have gone there and by-passed this place.  But on the upside we aren't banging around in a rolly anchorage in these high winds.

All the laborers here live in well worn housing resembling single wide trailers.  The supply boat arrives every Wednesday or twice a month depending on who you talk with. 

The "plush and really clean bathrooms"

The grocery store.  Actually rather well stocked.

The beach is very nice as is the pool.  There were 6 boats anchored off the beach when I walked around it.  The pool, an infinity pool, wasn't really being maintained.  It was quite nice or so thought the 20 or so sea gulls happily bobbing up and down in the cool fresh water.

When I returned we made dinner and watched some satellite TV before turning in.  A three mile walk did us in I guess.

This morning, Mary and Judy had a yoga session here on board.   

I took the opportunity to repair the bottom of the dinghy which had some pretty big gouges.  I used epoxy with an adhesive binder, just layering it on and smoothing it out.  Filled a few more gouges around the boat before it hardened to the point where it became unusable.  

We decided to do some laundry and sure enough there was 1 washing machine that worked.  NO dryers.  So we did sheets and stuff and then brought it back to the boat to air dry.

While we were waiting we hung out in the store for awhile and I talked to a guy who lives in the Bahamas and was considering running back to Florida to day so his friend didn't have to fly to Nassau and then get a flight to Ft. Lauderdale.  But he reported the Bimini Ferry which runs between South and North Bimini wasn't running due to weather.  And that’s only a few miles.   Not sure if anyone would be flying today though.  Its really windy again!

The airport here does have a sort of charter/commercial flight to Nassau.  Think it was only $289.  And the landing fees are only $29.

Yesterday we gave our phone number to the bar tender who assured us Saulie would call when he arrived because we wanted to return and eat lunch.

Well, no call, and when we tried calling his phone just rang until it hung up.   So, unsure of what we’d find after walking all that way, we sucked it up and went to the restaurant here.  I was expecting a $25 cheeseburger but it was a reasonable $9. 

After lunch we walked over to the pool and chatted with a nice Alabama couple who, along with 3 other couples, had leased the 120 foot Hargrave yacht that was here in the marina. 

4 couples on this yacht for 2 weeks.  5 crew members take care of them

They have been returning here for 20 some years and he talked about how much we’ll enjoy the Exumas.  “They are remote, but so wonderful”, was his mantra.  We just have to get there now!

Mary had gone off to walk along the beach and we all followed suite and met an English woman off one of the sailboats who was letting her dogs run the beach.  They are sailboat veterans (30 years) and had some interesting stories. 

We returned shortly after and now are just waiting for the rain to start.  As it looks now, Thursday morning might be the day we leave. 

A few sprinkles passed over but nothing drenching.  We used the water maker tonight and then had the forward A/C on for awhile.   Since we skipped the $40/day for a 50 amp electrical hookup we cant run everything we normally do at a marina.  And one of those things is the hot water heater.  May have to run the generator for an hour to heat water so we can take showers on board.  30 amps isn't a lot I guess.

While Mary remains transfixed by the TV and dancing people who are vaguely well known, I've taken up to reading some of the books we have on board.  Some visitors have noted my library is far from a collection of compelling novels.  But they work for me so I guess I have them all to myself.

Still waiting for this drenching downpour we were supposed to be experiencing.  It would be nice to get all the salt washed off the boat.

May 1-2, 2015 Adlers Cay to Chub Cay

It was an early day for me, 7AM.  I wanted to get the generator up and working again before we had to make decision on high tailing it to a marina or just heading further down the chain and anchoring.  The LOW, or “LO” as Parker refers to it, seems to be causing a flurry of excitement in the weather circles.  Some say it won’t be comes a tropical storm.  Others insist it will.  So we’ll be gambling on this either way.

But first the generator.  I shut the seacock off, and started taking the face plate off the water pump.  Once all six tiny screws were out I had to pry the face plate off and scrap the eroded gasket off.

Guess it needed replacement

The impeller was in bad shape with only 2 of the original fins intact.  No wonder there was no outflow of cooling water.  I pried it out with some screw drivers and then soaped up the housing and the new impeller and slid it back on.  Well, wiggled and pushed it back on is probably closer to the truth.

Once I had the face plate screwed down tight I started the genny and … no water!

Ugh …

But, after a few seconds I had a seacock epiphany!  I didn't re-open the darn generator seacock!  

Once opened, I restarted the generator and it was spewing water like a new unit.  Yeah.

I kept it running and re-charged the batteries, made water and we used the microwave to actually cook something this morning. It’s wonderful to have power!

After talking with Jeff and Judy we decided to throw the dice and make our way south to one of the other Cays.  Either Alders Cay or Bond Cay.  Both are OK anchorages.  Bond Cay is prettier and has a beach area we can use although it is rumored to have been purchased by a group of pop stars.  Adler Cay is a private island so no shore access but has much better holding. 

Good bye Great Harbor Cay

We chose Adler Cay mainly because it seemed to offer more wind protection and better holding.  It's only a 3 mile dingy ride to Jeff and Judy at Devils Cay.  And it is close to Flo’s on Little Harbor. 

Flo's Conch Bar is one of those must stop, out of the way places.  Its evidently known for conch, the best conch salad anywhere.  Hope we can find out first hand.  

Patrol Boat

It was a pleasant ride out on the ocean.  The swells gentle now, where from the north and pushed us along.  We called LeAnn from our Bahamas phone but the cell signal wasn't strong enough to sustain a decent connection.

We even saw our first Bahamas Defense Force patrol boat.

We made a non eventful turn into the inlet between Bond and Alders Cay and pulled up near a jetty of sorts and dropped the anchor in about 9 feet of water.  We let out 100 feet, hooked on the snubber and then sat out on the bow to enjoy the vista.

It's a private island.  A nice one too!

Pretty nice.  White sandy beach, palm trees, light breeze to keep us cool and not too sunny to save us from burning ourselves in unprotected spots.

Our official Alders Cay greeter

I took a quick dip when we first arrived and met Stubby, Mary’s pet name for the 3 foot barracuda hanging around the boat.   Later I donned my fins and mask and dove to check the anchor.  It was on its side but one fluke was well dug in so I’m leaving it alone.  As I swam back to the boat Stubby hung off in the distance.  I’d approach and it would back away.  As soon as I got out he’d wander back under the boat.  This is some pet we've acquired.  Might even be better than a dog.  It could swim alongside us and scare off would be intruders.  I’m sold.  Mary?

Even underwater he wouldn't let me pet him

We eventually started to get dinner ready.  We were having shrimp.  But the shrimp, alas, had sat too long and presented a pungent fishy aroma which, when I unwrapped it, reached heights well beyond the “dump it”  threshold.

We donated the shrimp to numerous ocean creatures which will become Stubby’s dinner.  The little fish will eat the shrimp and Stubby will, well eat the little fish.

The winds have now swung to almost directly north and the skies have cleared.  The barometer is beginning to fall so maybe we’re in for some more rain.  Gentle rain I hope.

Anchor on its side

It didn't rain last night.  We had cool breezes all night though and we both slept really well.  Until about 6 AM when the boat starting rocking with increasing frequency.  The winds stayed NE but the swells had moved to the north so we were rocking again.

And, Parker's forecast update came out and was calling for pretty nasty weather through Wednesday of next week.  I couldn't call Jeff & Judy who had remained in Devils Cay but we talked over the VHF radio and decided, regardless of the price, to head for some comfort at Chub Cay Marina.  We've been on the hook (anchored) for 11 days now and while we could go for another month, I guess we've grown soft in our old age and require solid land every once in awhile. 

We made water and got the boat ready to leave.  Jeff & Judy did the same but they left about 20 minutes before we did since they were further north by a few miles.

Leaving the anchorage through this inlet was an experience.  Rather large swells with short periods gave us some bouncy moments but we after ten minutes of bounce we got 2 hours of soft, rock & roll.  The 20 mile journey wasn't too bad and as we rounded Whale Point the swells calmed to only a ripple which was nice.

Winding entrance channel to the marina basin

Tucked in our slips.  Not real crowded in here.

Entering the marina was neat.  The channel leading into the marina basin is almost hidden until you’re almost on top of it.  It winds around into a large basin where most of the slips were empty.  We docked right next to Jeff & Judy.  We both backed in.

Our backing-in episode was a bit more demanding since the stiff wind was pushing us off the dock and I couldn't see much behind me but I could hear all kinds of directions from the dock hand and Jeff and Judy.  But we made it in without a problem.

The marina office

Hiked over to the marina office where we paid what would be known as a sizable ransom in some areas and went back to the boats.

We all hit the internet expect I had to fiddle unsuccessfully with the power pedestal which refused to dispense any 30 amp current.  It was a bad pedestal electrical box.  After Kenny, the very knowledgeable dock-hand couldn't make it work, he simply just switched pedestals and we were fine. 

Instead of paying the $40 a day (that is not one of my frequent typos) we opted for only 30 amps.  That will leave us with only the forward air conditioner.   But its breezy and cool as long as this low pressure lingers around here so we shouldn't need it.

The hot water heater wont work either but I can start the generator to handle that if we need to.  The water should stay hot for a few days anyway.  The engines heat it up to near boiling and the insulation is very heavy so it retains its heat for long periods of time.

So we are back in the boat until cocktail hour.  We might go out to eat except paying $49 for a 10oz

The restaurant  

sirloin steak might rattle Mary’s financial cockles a bit.  We’ll have to see.

And of course we stayed aboard,   Jeff and Judy came over for drinks and snacks and after, we ate dinner and then I wandered the quarter mile to the showers which were underwhelming at best.  Pricey place,  and suspicious showers.  Tomorrow is review time where I post my impressions of the place.  The showers just might find themselves in a lengthy paragraph regarding deficiencies.

Meanwhile we are hitting the sack on a comfortably cool and breezy night anticipating a few days of thunder, rain and general mayhem until Wednesday when we might be able to head to Nassau.