June 24-28 Elizabeth City and Dismal Swamp Canal

June 24, 2014

Leaving Manteo Marina

We were up and moving off the Manteo Marina dock at 7:35.  The water was down a little but we had no issues until we came to the junction of the main channel and the channel into Shallowbag Bay.  I made the mistake of thinking the main channel markers were ICW,  Aids to Navigation.  Well they aren't.  And we got into 2.5 feet of water because we were on the wrong side of the green channel markers.  It was all soft mud and I just backed off until we were in deep water again and remembered that we weren't in the ICW where the green ATN (Aids to Navigation – buoys) are always on the sea or ocean side.

So once we got straightened out we had no other problems although the channel does have some very shallow spots… 5.5 feet in some cases.

Alberrmarle Sound near Elizabeth City and the blimp hanger

We got into Albemarle Sound and made water which took only an hour or so because the Sound is pretty much fresh water.

Approaching Elizabeth City

Tight Fit in a 17'  free dock

Aside from the legions of crab pots and the stupefying humidity we arrived in Elizabeth City around 2pm.  We opted to try and use one of the free city docks even though there was a stiff east breeze.  The slip was 17’ wide.  Our boat is about 15.5’ wide.  It took us three tries but we got inside the outer pilings near the very short (10’) piers.  Unfortunately we were just to big.  Our swim platform was actually seated under the short stub pier and the pilings on either side of the boat were not even a half a foot away.  

So on the advice of one of the retired guys, part of the rose buddies who hang round the docks, we left, went through the bridge to an anchorage we knew about.  It seemed like a nice spot to stay in for southerly breezes.  And making the first lock opening is much easier from here since we don’t have a bridge to go through first.

Anchored!

We anchored and took the dinghy down right away.  I took it to the first free dock I found which was the Mid-Atlantic Christian Acadamy.  Then hiked to the post office 2 miles away and came back with out mail and Mary’s drugs, or most of them at least.  Drove the dinghy back to the boat noting how rough the water was on the other side of the bridge.  Now I’m glad we couldn't get in those docks.

A catamaran had anchored right near us too.  We’ll have company tonight!

Free Dock where I left the dinghy

June 25 2014

Leaving the Elizabeth City anchorage

We had engines running and ready to go at 8:20.  The only flaw in my plan to make the South Mills Lock opening on time was the anchor.  It baled at being raised.  I finally had to use the mass of the boat in several different directions to get it loose enough from the bottom before the windlass could pull it up.  Near as we can tell, it had lodged on a snag, a piece of wood which made it difficult to dislodge.  Luckily we must have twisted it free.

Wondering if this railroad bridge is open

So we left a little late but only had 18 miles to go in 2.5 hours. We first encountered a railroad bridge which, by all published accounts would be open.  When we first saw the bridge it wasn't apparent where the actual opening was much less if was even open.  But as we got closer it turned out to be open just as the reports stated.  

Yup!  Open!

We went through and settled into cruising mode so I set the throttles to generate 6.6 mph.

The river was calm and wound through swampy forested shorelines with little evidence of any development.  Very peaceful.

Racing to catch the lock opening

And of course I didn't pay close enough attention to the distance and time and we fond ourselves 4 miles away from the lock with 40 minutes to go.  So I throttle up and we flew up the  river at a hair-blowing 9 mph, anxious over the idea of sitting in the heat and humidity tied to bollard for 2 hours.

South Mills Lock

But as we rounded a curve there it was, the South Mills Lock.  The South Mills Lock is the first of the two locks on the Dismal Swamp Canal, the other being Deep Creek lock at the northern end of the canal.  We had to wait 10 minutes or so before the Lock opened which meant my initial calculations were correct!   But who ever trusts initial calculations.

Ready to lock through

As the lock gates opened I drove in as Mary got ready on the bow.  Now we've done this well over a hundred times on other canal systems but how soon we forget.  It took a minute to remember how I had eased the boat up to a lock wall.  But I did, and managed to slide the boat to the port side where the lock master wanted us.  And we were the only boat there in contrast to many of the locks we entered where 5 or 6 boats were already inside and tied up.

The swing bridge the Lock master opened for us

17 miles of straight away  Highway 17 is on the right

The Dismal Swamp Canal is a very narrow, tree lined waterway bordered by a highway 17.  Its weird to be in this wilderness setting that is assaulted every once in a while by the audio barrage of speeding cars and trucks.  Nice none the less.

We handed him our lines and  the lock doors closed and we rode the rising water up about 8.5 feet in 15 minutes. Then the lock master popped out of his little white building and motioned us forward as he fired up his pickup and sped off  to open the swing bridge which lay about 1/2 a mile from the lock.  Yes, lock masters are also bridge tenders here on the dismal swamp canal.

Dismal Swamp State Park pedestrian bridge

 After an hour or so of running along this straight and very narrow straight, tree lined ditch we arrived at the Dismal Swamp Welcome Center.  We first had to pass through the pedestrian foot bridge which is operated by the North Carolina DNR.  The foot bridge provides access to the Dismal Swamp State Park and the rangers are ever so at tentative to boat traffic.  We didn't even have to call!

Welcome center dock

The visitor center dock is 150 feet long and was occupied by a single sail boat . We moved beyond it and tied up to the north end of the dock leaving a sizable space in the middle for any late arrivals.

Tied up at the Welcome Center dock

Its really a serene place.  I think its primary function is a rest stop for highway 17.  People who stop here wander down to the dock and gawk at us and the sailboat.   I talked to several couples, one from Oklahoma, and one a Greek painter.  Incredibly interesting people. 

It was so freaking hot (91 and 92% humidity) we abandoned plans to walk in the park and stayed on the boat.  We did venture into the visitor center to absorb the cool air every once in a while and exchange a few books.  I even found a superb volume, Alex Karras, there.  If you don’t know who he is, try Google.  He played Mungo in Blazing Saddles.  Hilarious!

The (air conditioned) Welcome Center

I did a bunch of maintenance things and hunkered down to read that Karras book.  Aside from the heat the other deterrent to walking in the state park is these yellow biting flies.  Current wisdom for a stroll in th park suggested we embark on a any hike wearing long sleeved shorts and pants.  And embalmed in insect repellent.  Ok, maybe, but I’d bring my fly-swatter just for the joy spreading destruction among the yellow fly hordes.

I think we are staying another day here because we do need to see the park and why rush.  We have nowhere to be except Waterside Marina on July 1, but it's  too nice and peaceful here and there seems to be a plentiful stream of people to talk too.  Alas, no other boaters are around so its a party-less night for u

But now, given the escalating assaults by these biting yellow flies we're moving on.  It’s just not pleasant to be outside.  I cant imagine what the walkways in the park must be like and I’m unwilling to slobber insect repellent all over and still fight the damn things.  This is most definitely the wrong time of year to visit.

Tomorrow we leave but I want to see if we can refuel before anchoring tomorrow.  In any event we have to be up and off the dock by 8-8:30 to make the lock opening.  Piece of cake.  Even for Mary!

June 26 2014 

Early morning kayaker

In the morning it occurred to me there is a speed limit on the Dismal Swamp canal of 6 miles per hour.  We had 18 miles to make the lock opening at 11:00.  But given the idiosyncrasies of cruising I felt it prudent to lave at 7:45.  and so we did.  There was no wind, no current and the nearest boat, the only boat actually, was 50 feet behind us.  So I started everything up and back out and off we went.  Slowly at first because there was one of tho se kayaks out this early poking around the shore.  Why is it they don’t suffer yellow fly blitzkrieg while we, up in this large fly bridge with only a single unscreened window, fight a running battle with the things?.  Are we tastier or something?

Crossing another state line

We ran at a leisurely 5.75 mph the whole way.   We crossed into Virginia not too long after we left the dock at the Welcome Center.

It can occasionally be disorienting  

Very scenic especially in the morning light.  But its sometimes disorientating because the water is dead flat clam and the sun reflects off the tree canopy conveying this odd sense that your really flying above a river valley. Optical illusion but unnerving none-the-less.

One of the tiny free docks along the canal

We passed a few of the free docks which are tiny but seem sturdy enough.  There is also a feeder ditch that allows water to flow from Lake Drummond (the largest fresh water lake in Virginia) into the canal to control water levels.  There is a small dock there with a trolley contraption that allows you to move your dinghy into this feeder ditch and ultimately into the lake.  Pretty neat.  But we didn't do it this time simply because of the insect onslaught.

Water is like reflecting pool

That's the catamaran in the distance

We met a Catamaran coming the opposite way.  In the narrower portions of the canal this can present a problem because the water way is so narrow and there a stumps and fallen trees near the shore.  But in this case though we passed each other safely. 

Deep Creek Lock

Made it to the Deep Creek Swing bridge where we had to tie up to a little wall for a few minutes.  Had an unfortunate scrap which left a minor scratch on the hull.  After waiting 10 minutes we started up and pulled off the wall and through the bridge the lock master opened for us.  The two locks and swing bridges in the canal are operated by the lock masters doing double duty.

Roberts conch shell collection 

Once in the lock we were entertained by the dock master, Robert.  Knows everything about the canal and the whole area actually.  He also plays Conch shells.  He’s a maestro on the things.  I gets different pitches and I swear was even playing a chromatic scale on one of his larger shells.  Neat guy.

Leaving Deep Creek and entering the ICW

We went up through deep creek and around the bend to Top Rack Marina where we topped off the tanks with 88 gallons fuel and the astonishing price of $3.49.  What a deal.  I was paying a dollar more a gallon in Florida not 6 months ago.  And ironically as we were pulling into the fuel dock Field Trip was proceeding through the nearby bridge to anchor at Hospital Point.  We’ll be seeing them tomorrow!

In our slip at Top Rack all fueled up

Brian, the manager here is a great guy.  He runs this deal where you stay the night for free if you spend $75 or more at the restaurant, The Amber Lantern.  That’s about what we spend anyway when we go out to a non-Subway place.  And so we did spend more than $75 for a really tasty meal.

So here we sit all cozy in air conditioned comfort as opposed to staying in the Dismal and profusely sweating in the 90 degree temperatures while battling the denizens of the insect world.  Not a bad day, today.

Tomorrow we head to Hospital Point one of my favorite anchorages.